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Talking hands - bye. 🙄

I had an idea and I’ll probably try it on my next guitar relic project. Basically, I want to bake the body in my oven at a hot but safe temp then pour liquid nitrogen over it… there’s no way it’s not going to do something cool 😂. I’m hoping some of the finish will actually flake off

A reverse skunk stripe would look nice too

Which kind of glue is best to use in the holes to prevent water from entering?

sound?

I do prefer Mahogany over ash, the pores are smaller and the grain is less wide and rough. Still takes 3-4 coats, but I don't just lather it on like you do, I squeegee when I apply, leaving less on the wood top to sand off. Less time sanding is always a good thing. But I see why you had to brush it on the body you were showing us!

Haviing troubles with runs in my colour coat too heavy of an application instead of a very light first coat how can I fix this without sanding it back to bare wood as it has a signature on the back.

Fuck , that was impressive

How would you go about preparing the wood if you were to want to do a relic BLK1 style? Sandblast the wood? No primer?

If you just stopped at this point (the end of the video) would that me ok for a more matte finish?

Again great job just a couple pointers. Personally on such a soft paint like lacquer minimal sandpaper 1500 and at this point unlike video I would not touch no edges. Second off he was standing with his fingers big no no! Use a flat rubber squeegee. This ensures proper flatness sanding that's the purpose. After your first sanding of 1500 just to knock down the main roughage then work your way to the 3000 grit. Now you can slightly do your edges but not much at all needed emphasize best to stay away if you're new as the buffing and polishing will take care of the edges again caution. Quick note compounds and polishes are liquid sandpaper. As mentioned from heavy grit to light grit to super light grit with polishes. Polishes are not sealers like some think. I do recommend sealing fresh paint with a glaze. Glaze is safe for fresh paint but do not wax. It still needs cure time. If you have an older guitar that looks great you can polish it in wax is safe and recommended sealer for paint. Not fresh paint. Glaze is for fresh paint. Hope this helps

I'm a professional body man over 40 years. Video had one major thing that concerned me but otherwise well done. That is after he waited 24 hours for the paint to dry he went straight to clear coat. At this stage sanding isn't recommended but a midcoat adhesive is. Some will say that's not needed. I have found that in 5 years or more the clear will start to peel. Looks great out of the gate but not for longevity it's not worth missing this step. Especially with enamels and polyurethane. You can buy it in a spray can and it's the same exact step as his sealer. I also found this definitely helps on Sharp edges as well to help hold a little build up. Hope this helps

can i use iron for this?

Does anyone know what is the best Nitro lacquer you can buy? I went down that rabbit hole, and I read different things. Some say most of the formulas aren't the same as the old stuff, but Fender and Gibson relic their guitars, so they're bound to be getting something that's accurate. Is Stewmac any good? I don't know. I'm really just thinking I might get some rattle can stuff as I don't have a spray gun. Trouble with that is you can't customize your color. There are some people out there saying that the Mowhawk Furniture lacquer is actually more close to the original lacquer than their instrument lacquer. I don't know, thats why I ask. EDIT: One more thing I'd like to add....I read all the specs on most of the modern lacquer that is available, and they all say the same thing...."Resist cold checking"....That's a big no-no if you want a vintage finish, right?

So does the truss rod only affect the fretboard? It looks like that's the case... but I always thought it was bending the whole neck...

I can’t get my nitro to crack tried this method even left it in the freezer overnight still not cracks

This is exactly what I needed, you are the man!

Hey man! Your videos have been super helpful. I had a question with an issue that came up in my finish process. I just sprayed my first color coat tonight and I believe a bunch of moisture got trapped in it. Would you sand that first layer off and start clear coat over again?

I’m planning to do basically exactly this except with gloss nitro. I love the depth that tru oil gives the wood, but I want the protection and shine from nitro.

I have a mahogany body that i was trying to figure out what I wanted to do for a neck. This has solidified my choice of using ebony for the neck. The black paired with the reddish brown will be beautiful especially with the cross color wood inlay I have planed and the brass inlay that is planned for both the body and the neck. My partner and I weren’t sure an ebony neck could be done but you proved me right…..thank you! She is going to be a heavy beast but she should sing when she is done.

I'm going to spray nitro on my tele. Daphne blue. And now I'm watching your videos every day. Detail by detail. Now I have the tele body prepared for white primer. But is there a problem if I didn't use a grain filler but only sanding sealer which was not in the spray. I put a 7 coats of this and sanded it. Now it's smooth like a glass. But there are 2 tiny scratches and I can't sand them out. Is it a problem for next steps? All the other surface is really smooth. Thank you for your videos 🙏

I've never done this, but I've talked to a lot of people about it, and most people recommend sanding and polishing in circles. Just so newbies see this and know that there are other ideas out there.

Hey Lone Star, Love your videos, sir. I've just done my first Strat body in surf green, ironically. My question to you is, do I need to sand and polish if I'm going to create a relic finish?

Nice action. My guitartech made me a solid telecaster spruce body, he said its a 2-component "nitro" laquer. Im not an expert, but i realise that its pretty soft, even after 2 months after spraying. You can literary leave your finger nail markf in a surface when you push harder. Is that normal? Should i spray maybe one coat os "something" to protect that fragile surface?

Thank you Things (The Adam's family).

are you sanding between color and clear finish?

Great video, thanks!!! What if you want a textured surface that DOES pop the grain visually, sort of like Novo guitars with their solid color on sand-blasted bodies, with almost 3D texture? Could you spray nitro directly on sanded wood? Or wood with minimum sealer, but no fill?

My wife uses it often, also handy in a tight spot.

so dumb

I just waited 50 yrs

Thank you

I think nitrolac's primer is a sealer and a primer at the same time? woudl you know?

Sounds like you have a slight accent, maybe French (like French Canadian) your tutorial is thorough and was very helpful. Thanks.

I've been reading the Stew Mac book on finishing, and this video has been very helpful with the visual hands on.

For $500 and you need to do all that work ? The money spent you can pay for a airline traveling hard case

Question: can you use this method after you follow your 3 part nitro finish videos? I am curious if you also need to polish it (part 3) before you do this. Curious what you recommend

Wow, most excellent video, I'm doing the exact same thing to a thinline, was hunting around for info on drying time pre clear coat, only 5 more days to wait......thanks for the video, and greeting from New Zealand.

They always use Tele bodies!

OK ---Nice work ==BUT WHAT EXACTLY IS MEANT BY ORANGE PEEL ?? I KEEP hearing that expression ! What does it MEAN ?

? Am I correct in thinking that after you use grain filler you have to use paint because stain or dye will no longer soak into the wood ?

Why do most other tutorials state to sand between coats if it’s not necessary? Even on forums people have said this to me frequently

Awesome tutorial, this is the most helpful by far on YT. Quick question though! How important is letting the nitro cure for 2 weeks? I am building a guitar body for school and I only have 3 weeks to complete the whole thing including painting.

do you know what my 73 fender telecaster deluxe has truss rod wise... the silver bullet nut at head stock is loose but the neck is not coming up outta being bent downwards im wondering if higher gauge strings is what it needs, not sure if there is a minimum gauge I think there is 8s on there now

Great video. So the opposition to the truss rod force that creates the neck movement is the back of the fret board? Seems like a good amount of pressure on the fret board. The truss rod uses the back of the fret board to “push” the neck straight?

This dude's hands are the star of the vid

Nice. Is air compressor on cold wheater also an option, In combination with a hairdryer?

Thank you for posting this! It’s very helpful to see it exposed.

I just adjusted my old Univox Hiflier guitar’s truss rod because it had way too much up bow and all I could do is set it neutral because beyond that, the nut started to get really loose. Once it gets loose when trying to apply relief or down bow, does the truss rod keep working or will not work once it feels too loose?

Just perfect. Thank you for all the Details and very good explanation

What grit do you sand the fretboard to please? thanks